VIAREGGIO CARNIVAL: Sun. 1 (3 pm, followed by fireworks), Sun. 7 (5 pm), Thurs. 12 (5 pm, followed by fireworks), Sun. 15 (3 pm), Tues. 17 (3 pm) & Sat. 21 (5 pm, followed by fireworks).
It’s Carnival time and Viareggio hosts Tuscany’s biggest celebration. Sunday February 1, the festivities kick off with a triple cannon shot to begin the masked parade at 3 pm followed by a fireworks display.
Although often associated with Christianity and Easter, Martedi Grasso, or Fat Tuesday has origins in the pagan Roman festival of Saturnalia. More recently the day, and the period that precedes it, denotes a time of uninhibited partaking of food, drink and sensual pleasures leading up to the 40 days of Lent. During Lent practicing Catholics deprive themselves of a pleasure. In fact, the word Carnival is derived from the Latin carnem levere, or ‘take away the meat.’
Viareggio, with its backdrop of the Apuan Alps and fronting the Mediterranean Sea, hosts a 21-day festival featuring six masked parades, streets filled with music, joy, color and creativity.
Floats, or carri, the centerpiece of the celebrations, depict current social and political themes. Satire plays a major role in the festival, and the floats exploit the fortes and foibles of the world situation. There’s a saying which translates, “During Carnival all jokes are acceptable.”
This year one float entitled “The Last Hop(e): Climate Change Is a Hoax” features an unspoiled lily pond, occupied by frogs and becomes a metaphor for the planet’s vulnerability. Lurking below the frogs, one sees the evil faces of pollution and the float creators query, “Is climate change just a hoax?”
Roberto Vannucci, a float creator since 1999, presents, “I Live in This Moment.” Even though humankind often looks to the past, we must be reminded the past cannot be changed and our future is determined by choices and actions of the present.
Instead of “break a leg” Italians utter “In bocca al lupo,” “In the mouth of the wolf” to impart good luck. This float portrays Little Red Riding Hood embarking into a dark and ominous tunnel to come face to face with the gaping jaws of a wolf. But the artist implores the viewer to enter with optimism, courage and hope.
“The Samurai of Power” depicts Trump, Putin and Xi Jinping as Samurai, each vying for dominance. Xi Jinping expression exhibits discipline with the goal of leading his army to economic dominance and Putin calculates his vision of reclaiming the Russian Empire. Trump appears as the creator of chaos, wielding a huge sword. A great dragon towers above them, one paw on a pagoda and one on planet earth.
Many smaller floats enter the gala parade with equally significant themes. Priscilla Borri’s creation “Degenerate Gender Equality” reveals the millennia of women’s inequality to men. Greek style statues portraying voting power, marital status, honor killings and access to the armed forces, support a ceiling containing representations of domestic life. The washing machines, vacuum cleaners and irons symbolizing constant ‘women’s work’ remain a heavy burden for modern day women.
Masqueraded groups join the crowd, representing the powerful and potentially destructive faces of AI, the vulnerability of children in today’s harsh world and the importance of facing life with fortitude and hope.
Carnevale, the festival which brings Italians into the streets for revelry and merrymaking, is a season filled with joy, jokes and jubilance and the city of Viareggio invites the public to come and partake. For the best viewpoints of the parade, celebrants can buy a supplement to sit in the grandstands located along the parade route.
The celebrations aren’t all about parades and to fully enjoy the carnival experience visitors will want to see the Carnival Museum. This permanent exhibit is dedicated to the history and traditions of Viareggio’s Carnival tracing a timeline from the original celebrations in 1873 over more than 150 years. With exhibits documenting the artistic evolution, the art of papier mâche and the artisans who create the floats, visitors can better understand the meaning and importance of Carnevale. Burlamacco, the Carnival’s mascot occupies its own exhibit and the joyful clown with red and white suit, black cape aloft behind can also be seen in statue form in Piazza Mazzini in front of the sea (Cittadella Carnevale, Via Santa Maria Goretti, 5. Admission €5).
For the complete schedule of parades and events, visit the website: https://viareggio.ilcarnevale.com/en/ Tickets can be purchased online or at the ticket office at the main entrance of the Cittadella, Via Santa Maria Goretti. (rita kungel)
